{"id":2993,"date":"2025-09-20T14:56:13","date_gmt":"2025-09-20T13:56:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/?p=2993"},"modified":"2026-05-02T19:31:52","modified_gmt":"2026-05-02T18:31:52","slug":"voyage-en-armenie","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/voyage-en-armenie\/","title":{"rendered":"Voyage en Arm\u00e9nie"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure style=\"aspect-ratio:1\" class=\"aligncenter wp-block-post-featured-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"2560\" height=\"1920\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-scaled.jpg\" class=\"attachment-post-thumbnail size-post-thumbnail wp-post-image\" alt=\"image (6)\" style=\"width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:contain;\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n\n\n<div data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo7226uq-wl2sh4\" class=\"wp-block-button spectra-buttons wp-block-spectra-buttons\">\n\t\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo7226ze-mt2ps7\" href=\"#J0\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J0\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-bae5a37851f5ff3dac9f2cf02f5e9087 wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J0<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo723r4r-h7ulr0\" href=\"#J1\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J1\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-e315c82b4d56e2124dfe6cb478b0849d wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J1<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo72416c-f6a7yx\" href=\"#J2\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J2\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-efe6dcbc2ed55f27807edbb9fa80d896 wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J2<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo7248ap-nhboyg\" href=\"#J3\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J3\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-7a98e07098a37e441e741cb80d1b5975 wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J3<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo724d23-emzwur\" href=\"#J4\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J4\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-a4641d9af2ebeaf16f039085dde24024 wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J4<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-9a3b8c80-d25b-45aa-8eca-93d2ea2cc38f\" href=\"#J5\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J5\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-f4ed45d97c12d4e8b33d5c297f35912d wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J5<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-4a85a93f-1771-46ab-a4f8-b729a52a021a\" href=\"#J6\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J6\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-08a21fa8d4991614fe623ae4fdcc54dc wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J6<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-3b1237b8-4611-4c47-95fa-59578cfb74d9\" href=\"#J7\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J7\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-d185439a0c73250919b618804d1c5ead wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J7<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-ec6cbfb8-fa26-44df-bb42-b27891115fa6\" href=\"#J8\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J8\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-74e850fc40ad8e1c6957ee87049c8b45 wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J8<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-fa4ffff3-0d24-4390-9889-454e6f13409c\" href=\"#J9\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J9\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-c5043b18b78459f23917b8d2db5caff0 wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J9<\/div><\/a>\n\n\n<a data-spectra-id=\"spectra-a456e846-6b3e-406b-bd42-c10bff54fc78\" href=\"#J10\" target=\"_self\" aria-label=\"J10\" style=\"background-color:#f24578;--spectra-text-color: ast-global-color-5\" class=\"wp-block-button__link wp-element-button spectra-text-color wp-elements-e00baa0fff57955db0b35e4830413453 wp-block-spectra-button has-text-color has-ast-global-color-5-color has-background\">\n<div class=\"spectra-button__link\">J10<\/div><\/a>\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-medium-font-size\" id=\"J0\"><strong>J0 : Direction Erevan<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">En septembre 2025, nous nous sommes envol\u00e9s pour l\u2019<strong>Arm\u00e9nie<\/strong>, la terre d\u2019enfance de mon homme. Ce r\u00e9cit retrace notre p\u00e9riple entre gastronomie, retrouvailles et randonn\u00e9es \u00e0 travers des paysages aussi bruts que magnifiques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">\u2708\ufe0f C\u00f4t\u00e9 Pratique<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pour ceux qui envisageraient l\u2019aventure, le voyage est plus simple qu&rsquo;il n&rsquo;y para\u00eet :<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li><strong>Le trajet :<\/strong> Un vol direct depuis l\u2019a\u00e9roport de <strong>Marseille<\/strong> avec <a href=\"https:\/\/www.transavia.com\/destinations\/fr-fr\/armenie\/erevan\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Transavia <\/a>(comptez moins de 5 heures).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><strong>Formalit\u00e9s :<\/strong> Un simple passeport en cours de validit\u00e9 suffit pour entrer sur le territoire.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Un pays de contrastes : Dix ans plus tard<\/h3>\n\n\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u2019\u00e9tait pour moi une deuxi\u00e8me visite, dix ans apr\u00e8s la premi\u00e8re. Le constat est sans appel : l\u2019Arm\u00e9nie &#8211;  et surtout sa capitale, <strong>Erevan<\/strong> &#8211; s\u2019est m\u00e9tamorphos\u00e9e pour rejoindre les standards europ\u00e9ens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Pourtant, derri\u00e8re cette modernit\u00e9 de fa\u00e7ade, on sent encore les cicatrices d&rsquo;un pays \u00e9prouv\u00e9. Entre la m\u00e9moire du g\u00e9nocide de 1915, les d\u00e9cennies sous le joug de l\u2019URSS et les blessures r\u00e9centes de la guerre en Artsakh (2020), la r\u00e9silience est ici un mode de vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<blockquote class=\"wp-block-quote is-layout-flow wp-block-quote-is-layout-flow\">\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Le saviez-vous ?<\/strong> Ce qui nous semble acquis \u2014 comme l&rsquo;acc\u00e8s fluide \u00e0 l&rsquo;eau courante ou un syst\u00e8me de sant\u00e9 stable \u2014 reste un d\u00e9fi quotidien pour beaucoup d&rsquo;Arm\u00e9niens.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Une ascension fulgurante<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Malgr\u00e9 ce chemin encore long, l&rsquo;Arm\u00e9nie surprend l\u00e0 o\u00f9 on ne l&rsquo;attend pas. On assiste aujourd&rsquo;hui \u00e0 une v\u00e9ritable <strong>explosion du secteur technologique<\/strong>. En misant tout sur l&rsquo;intelligence artificielle et l&rsquo;innovation, le pays est en train de r\u00e9inventer son march\u00e9 du travail et de s&rsquo;offrir un nouvel horizon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bonne lecture au fil de nos pas (et de nos coups de fourchette) !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J1\"><strong>J1 : Erevan, Garni et Gheghart<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-a3qrl137\">Barev dzez, bonjour en arm\u00e9nien \ud83c\udf1e<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-10b81140\">Deux heures de d\u00e9calage, mais d\u00e9j\u00e0 un monde de d\u00e9couvertes ! Depuis hier, nous voil\u00e0 en \u2026 Arm\u00e9nie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-djfqs4739\">Pas de v\u00e9lo cette fois mais un p\u00e9riple de plusieurs jours avec Garen, notre chauffeur local dans le pays natal de mon homme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-b50rl4751\">Retrouvailles chaleureuses avec des cousins de Lyon \u00e0 Zvarnots, l&rsquo;a\u00e9roport de ce pays de 3,5 millions d&rsquo;habitants enclav\u00e9 entre la G\u00e9orgie, l&rsquo;Azerba\u00efdjan, l&rsquo;Iran et la Turquie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-v84iq4763\">Pour commencer, un d\u00eener gargantuesque dans un restaurant d\u2019Erevan, la capitale de ce pays sublime. J&rsquo;y mange les meilleurs dolmas \u00e0 la viande de la vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-r1gnf4830\">Ce matin, direction le temple de Garni, seul temple pa\u00efen du pays encore existant, jadis d\u00e9di\u00e9 au culte de Mythra, perch\u00e9 au bord d\u2019une falaise. Vue \u00e0 couper le souffle et\u2026 surprise : m\u00eame les Romains avaient laiss\u00e9 leur empreinte en construisant un spa \u00e0 proximit\u00e9 ! La sublime mosa\u00efque, un peu malmen\u00e9e par le temps et des touristes peu d\u00e9licats et la p\u00e9riode sovi\u00e9tique est aujourd\u2019hui bichonn\u00e9e par des restaurateurs italiens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ldfi94877\">On encha\u00eene avec les gorges aux orgues basaltiques au pied de Garni. De v\u00e9ritables tuyaux d\u2019orgue sculpt\u00e9s par la lave : la nature a vraiment un sens artistique.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-82jsw4842\">Pause spirituelle au monast\u00e8re troglodyte de Gheghart. Une source miraculeuse y coule : les femmes y boivent pour tomber enceintes. Mon homme a tent\u00e9 sa chance\u2026 affaire \u00e0 suivre \ud83d\ude09.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-n1rsk4934\">\u00c0 midi, atelier lavash : ce pain fin qui colle aux parois d\u2019un four enterr\u00e9. On transpire au-dessus de l&rsquo;antre incandescent, on s&rsquo;ex\u00e9cute, mais on s\u2019en sort ! Et on d\u00e9guste : dolma, houmous d\u2019aubergines, b\u0153uf fondant \u00e0 la cr\u00e8me d\u2019aubergines grill\u00e9es\u2026 le tout arros\u00e9 d\u2019un caf\u00e9 arm\u00e9nien cors\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-o5hz24957\">Retour \u00e0 Erevan par le lac de barrage d\u2019Azat au plus bas en cette saison et ses vergers. On finit en beaut\u00e9 par les fameuses Cascades, gigantesques escaliers-mus\u00e9e, domin\u00e9s par la Fondation Aznavour. Notre h\u00f4tel est juste en bas : bonheur absolu pour nos jambes fatigu\u00e9es !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-5mxh55004\">Demain, on file au \u00ab Vatican \u00bb local, Etchmeadzine : l\u2019\u00e9glise apostolique arm\u00e9nienne a son propre pape, le Catholicos qui nous b\u00e9nira peut-\u00eatre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xdq-5zpv26\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3001\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (4)\" class=\"wp-image-3001\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xhy-f8lvj2\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2995\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250905_083237-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250905 083237\" class=\"wp-image-2995\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250905_083237-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250905_083237-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250905_083237-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250905_083237-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250905_083237-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xck-vi16iw\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3004\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (1)\" class=\"wp-image-3004\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xim-xdqmey\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2999\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_120605-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250906 120605\" class=\"wp-image-2999\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_120605-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_120605-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_120605-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_120605-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_120605-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xd5-bt225m\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3002\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (2)\" class=\"wp-image-3002\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xec-b1o8t4\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3003\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (5)\" class=\"wp-image-3003\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xex-jynrio\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3008\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (6)\" class=\"wp-image-3008\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xfh-qecanv\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3007\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (7)\" class=\"wp-image-3007\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xg5-ta82m3\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3006\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (8)\" class=\"wp-image-3006\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xgr-15je94\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2994\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (9)\" class=\"wp-image-2994\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9.jpg 1500w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xhd-ergz95\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3005\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (10)\" class=\"wp-image-3005\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xj9-vliht7\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2996\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_122257-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250906 122257\" class=\"wp-image-2996\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_122257-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_122257-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_122257-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_122257-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_122257-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xk2-cp5jpb\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2997\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131234-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250906 131234\" class=\"wp-image-2997\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131234-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131234-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131234-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131234-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131234-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xks-jxxnua\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"2998\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131437-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250906 131437\" class=\"wp-image-2998\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131437-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131437-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131437-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131437-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_131437-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8o1xlm-dmrgq1\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3000\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_174015-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250906 174015\" class=\"wp-image-3000\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_174015-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_174015-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_174015-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_174015-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250906_174015-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-medium-font-size\" id=\"J2\"><strong>J2 Erevan-Zvarnots-Erevan &#8211; Sur la route de la m\u00e9moire<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\t<p data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo735a1d-s0lhxx\"\t\tclass=\"wp-block-spectra-content\">\n\t\t\u00ab Il faut cultiver son jardin \u00bb : aujourd\u2019hui, c\u2019est notre jardin int\u00e9rieur qui s\u2019enrichit. Il se nourrit de spiritualit\u00e9 et de m\u00e9moire. La M\u00e9moire, avec un grand M.<br><br>Direction un lieu saint tout \u00e0 fait particulier : le temple y\u00e9zedi Quba M\u00ear\u00ea D\u00eewan\u00ea, \u00e9rig\u00e9 en 2015 \u00e0 35 km de Erevan. Les Y\u00e9zidis\u00a0 sont un peuple de kurdes d\u2019Irak frapp\u00e9 par le g\u00e9nocide de 2014. Une communaut\u00e9 qui pratique une religion tr\u00e8s ancienne, myst\u00e9rieuse, h\u00e9rit\u00e9e du zoroastrisme, centr\u00e9e sur le Dieu-paon et le culte du soleil.\t<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le nouveau temple est saisissant. Octogonal, il renferme sept autres octogones int\u00e9rieurs, sans doute en hommage aux sept anges auxquels il est d\u00e9di\u00e9. Le paon pr\u00e9domine \u00e9galement dans le deuxi\u00e8me temple situ\u00e9 dans l&rsquo;enceinte. Cela me rappelle la passion des paons du Roi Soleil et l\u2019\u00eele aux Paons, pr\u00e8s de Berlin. Un hasard ? Dans les jardins qui l\u2019entourent, un homme se courbe avec gr\u00e2ce au-dessus d&rsquo;un buisson. Il est v\u00eatu en harmonie avec la nature qu\u2019il taille et sculpte. Image saisissante, presque intemporelle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Le si\u00e8ge spirituel de l&rsquo;\u00e9glise apostolique arm\u00e9nienne : Etchmiadzine, dont la premi\u00e8re pierre fut pos\u00e9e au IV\u1d49 si\u00e8cle. Pas de catholicos en vue ce jour-l\u00e0, mais une longue procession de pr\u00eatres dans l&rsquo;enceinte la cath\u00e9drale refaite. La foule tend&nbsp; des sachets de grains de bl\u00e9 vers la curie, offrande dont le sens m\u2019\u00e9chappe. Geste de gratitude pour la r\u00e9colte ? Thanksgiving \u00e0 l\u2019arm\u00e9nienne ? Myst\u00e8re, encore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-j2zq715\">Le lendemain, renseignement pris, il s&rsquo;agit de grains d&rsquo;encens !!! Je comprends mieux.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-8fmon14\">Le cort\u00e8ge se referme sur le pr\u00eatre couronn\u00e9, sans doute bras droit du patriarche.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-bd91025\">Nous filons ensuite vers Zvartnots. Non pas l\u2019a\u00e9roport, mais l\u2019ancienne cath\u00e9drale, chef-d\u2019\u0153uvre effondr\u00e9 lors d\u2019un s\u00e9isme au Xe si\u00e8cle. Haute de 49 m\u00e8tres, \u00e0 trois niveaux, elle \u00e9tonnait par sa forme ronde et ses cinq entr\u00e9es \u2014 comme les cinq doigts de la main, \u00e9cho lointain \u00e0 d\u2019antiques croyances. Les tentatives de reconstruction \u00e9chou\u00e8rent, l\u2019architecte \u00e9tant mort en chemin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-a8b1l28\">De retour aupr\u00e8s de notre chauffeur, halte au \u00ab Tasty House \u00bb, un repaire discret, presque cach\u00e9, qui abrite une table d\u2019h\u00f4tes g\u00e9n\u00e9reuse. Poivrons, salades, puis un g\u00e2teau de riz irakien aux l\u00e9gumes d\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9, accompagn\u00e9 d\u2019une escalope de poulet marin\u00e9e au citron et aux arbouses. Pourquoi ce plat m\u00e9rite-t-il d\u2019\u00eatre cit\u00e9 ? Parce qu\u2019il aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 servi, un jour, \u00e0 l\u2019ambassadeur d\u2019Irak en personne. Un clin d&rsquo;\u0153il \u00e0 la m\u00e9moire des y\u00e9zedis ? Peut-\u00eatre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-c53p631\">D\u00e9licieusement rassasi\u00e9s, nous reprenons la route d\u2019Erevan. Cette fois, pour une m\u00e9moire plus sombre. Celle des 1,5 million d\u2019Arm\u00e9niens massacr\u00e9s en 1915, sur une population de 2,5 millions. Une guide retrace l\u2019engrenage de l\u2019horreur, pr\u00e9figurant les g\u00e9nocides du XX\u1d49 si\u00e8cle. Et toujours, ce refus de reconnaissance des responsables.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-pjk3e34\">Combien d&rsquo;\u00eatres viol\u00e9s ou crucifi\u00e9s, comme cet enfant dont la photographie figure au m\u00e9morial, faudra-t-il encore pour que la v\u00e9rit\u00e9 s\u2019impose ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Toujours au nom des religions. Peut-on encore dire : \u00ab Pardonne-leur, ils ne savent pas ce qu\u2019ils font \u00bb ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-2 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc2t-grwzor\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3014\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (3)\" class=\"wp-image-3014\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc7d-g5o6y5\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3017\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (7)\" class=\"wp-image-3017\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-7-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc5d-6143rz\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3009\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_095947-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250907 095947\" class=\"wp-image-3009\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_095947-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_095947-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_095947-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_095947-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_095947-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogcaf-ry3fx1\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3018\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-11-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (11)\" class=\"wp-image-3018\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-11-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-11-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-11-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, 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1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc6p-niqf2k\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3016\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (6)\" class=\"wp-image-3016\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc8w-t8d0ng\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3019\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (9)\" class=\"wp-image-3019\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc3g-d4echb\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3013\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (4)\" class=\"wp-image-3013\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc2a-afc7yg\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3011\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (2)\" class=\"wp-image-3011\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-1-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc9o-0he2x3\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3020\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (10)\" class=\"wp-image-3020\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc62-p9q1fp\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3010\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_122006-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250907 122006\" class=\"wp-image-3010\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_122006-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_122006-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_122006-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_122006-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250907_122006-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc43-zxyeud\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3015\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (5)\" class=\"wp-image-3015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc4o-qquytf\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3021\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image\" class=\"wp-image-3021\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ogc81-b1oukx\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3022\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (8)\" class=\"wp-image-3022\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-1-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J3\"><strong>J3 Des Ladas, des fresques et des gambettes nues<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-5l5ms24\">Nous quittons Erevan pour gagner le nord du pays, la r\u00e9gion de Lori, et d\u00e9couvrir Haghpat, Aghtala et Odzun. Trois lieux embl\u00e9matiques, \u00e0 plus de deux cents kilom\u00e8tres de la capitale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-gg1ht26\">Avant de prendre la route, nous faisons un d\u00e9tour par le quartier de Chaoumian, \u00e0 six kilom\u00e8tres du centre-ville. C\u2019est une \u00e9tape intime : c\u2019est ici que mon mari et sa cousine ont pass\u00e9 leur toute petite enfance. Leurs parents, pourtant n\u00e9s en France, avaient suivi leurs propres parents en 1947, lors du rapatriement presque forc\u00e9 en Arm\u00e9nie sovi\u00e9tique. \u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, on ne contestait pas les d\u00e9cisions. La propagande battait son plein : on promettait terres, travail, et une vie douce \u00e0 ceux qui avaient surv\u00e9cu au g\u00e9nocide. La r\u00e9alit\u00e9 fut tout autre : mis\u00e8re, rudesse et d\u00e9sillusion.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-m6flt28\">La grand-m\u00e8re de la cousine fut envoy\u00e9e \u00e0 Vanadzor, alors pr\u00e9sent\u00e9e comme \u00ab plus belle que Nice \u00bb. En r\u00e9alit\u00e9, une ville industrielle o\u00f9 l\u2019on peinait \u00e0 survivre. Mais de ces conditions extr\u00eames sont n\u00e9s une solidarit\u00e9 et un sens des valeurs qui perdurent encore.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-v9ga830\">Plus d\u2019un demi-si\u00e8cle a pass\u00e9 depuis le retour de la famille en France. Il \u00e9tait temps d\u2019affronter cette m\u00e9moire avec des yeux d\u2019adultes et d&rsquo;effectuer ce voyage en Arm\u00e9nie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-61ar7630\">L&rsquo;\u00e9motion avec laquelle la cousine franchie le seuil de la maison d&rsquo;enfance pour y retrouver la personne qui l&rsquo;avait jadis accompagn\u00e9e \u00e0 l&rsquo;a\u00e9roport en 1972 est palpable. Elle revient charg\u00e9e avec un sac de grappes de raisin, le m\u00eame plant\u00e9 par son p\u00e8re il y a plus d&rsquo;un demi-si\u00e8cle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-2cdi732\">De retour sur la route, le contraste avec la capitale est frappant. Le monde rural reste tr\u00e8s pr\u00e9sent, avec ses maisons simples et ses vieilles Ladas caboss\u00e9es ainsi qu&rsquo;un vieil autocar d&rsquo;Alsace d\u00e9sormais immatricul\u00e9 en Arm\u00e9nie. Mais depuis notre dernier voyage en 2015, nous remarquons des signes de renouveau : routes refaites, commerces modernes, fa\u00e7ades color\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-pqahd34\">Nous faisons halte dans un ancien cimeti\u00e8re y\u00e9zidi sur invitation du cheikh et chef de village local. Les st\u00e8les centenaires s&rsquo;inclinent face \u00e0 l\u2019infini des steppes et nous murmurent la chance d&rsquo;\u00eatre au 21\u00e8me si\u00e8cle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-r6hj84625\">Plus loin, une halte gourmande d\u00e9mesur\u00e9e nous surprend : immense comme une station-service d\u2019autoroute fran\u00e7aise, mais chaleureuse, avec des sanitaires dignes d&rsquo;un 5 \u00e9toiles et un stand de lavash xxl ou les boulangers disparaissent \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 dans le tonir, le four \u00e0 pain en collant la p\u00e2te sur les parois. Le lieu, para\u00eet-il, n\u2019\u00e9tait autrefois qu\u2019un simple cabanon avec toilettes. Le sens du commerce, ici, a fait son \u0153uvre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-fz9g336\">Au pied de Haghpat, nous pique-niquons dans une aire construite \u00e0 la m\u00e9moire d&rsquo;un jeune soldat de 19 ans, tomb\u00e9 pendant la guerre du Haut-Karabagh. Il y a 5 ans d\u00e9j\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-iglw538\">Plus haut, le complexe monastique, inscrit au patrimoine mondial, se compose d\u2019\u00e9glises et de chapelles \u00e0 l\u2019architecture g\u00e9orgienne, mais \u00e0 la liturgie arm\u00e9nienne. Nous traversons le site presque au pas de course, croisant un groupe de visiteurs chinois particuli\u00e8rement volubiles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-sr0r726\">On note toutefois les nombreuses ouvertures au sol de l&rsquo;ancienne biblioth\u00e8que, des emplacements contenant jadis du lait qui aurait eu des propri\u00e9t\u00e9s bact\u00e9ricides permettant la conservation des manuscrits et livres !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ia5sd40\">La route continue vers Aghtala, autre joyau \u00e0 fresques murales d\u2019une beaut\u00e9 saisissante et qui m\u00e9riterait un coup de pouce financier car les fresques se d\u00e9gradent. Ce lieu nous rappelle un souvenir de 2015 : un cycliste allemand, identifiable \u00e0 ses sacoches Ortlieb, reliait Fribourg \u00e0 la Nouvelle-Z\u00e9lande. Nous avions suivi ses aventures et appris qu\u2019il avait atteint son but l\u2019ann\u00e9e suivante. Autre anecdote locale : on raconte qu&rsquo;un membre de la famille proche du g\u00e9n\u00e9ral de Gaulle aurait travaill\u00e9 dans les mines voisines. Mythe ou v\u00e9rit\u00e9 ? L\u2019histoire reste n\u00e9buleuse. En tous les cas, cette mine aurait livr\u00e9 le cuivre ayant permis la construction de la statue de la Libert\u00e9 visible \u00e0 New York !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-tckfx42\">Derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape : l\u2019\u00e9glise d\u2019Odzun. La fatigue se fait sentir, et l\u2019accueil nous rappelle que nos jambes nues manquent de tenue. Pas de probl\u00e8me : un tablier noir est pr\u00eat pour les visiteurs impr\u00e9voyants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-nhujd44\">Nous retrouvons notre chambre d\u2019h\u00f4tes, la m\u00eame qu\u2019il y a dix ans, mais dans un b\u00e2timent flambant neuf. Ce soir, au menu : horovats, le barbecue arm\u00e9nien par excellence. Parfait avant la randonn\u00e9e de 18 km pr\u00e9vue demain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-3 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8oy7z0-zprw3l\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"769\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-2-769x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (1)\" class=\"wp-image-3024\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-2-769x1024.jpg 769w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-2-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-2-768x1022.jpg 768w, 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768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-12-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-12-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8oy86i-fk442q\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3026\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_111611-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250908 111611\" class=\"wp-image-3026\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_111611-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_111611-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_111611-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_111611-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_111611-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8oy875-xfafj4\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3036\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (9)\" class=\"wp-image-3036\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-2-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8oy87v-3t7pub\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3035\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-2-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (10)\" class=\"wp-image-3035\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-2-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-2-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-2-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J4\"><strong>J4 Dans les hauteurs du Caucase<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-cngf918\">Nous quittons <strong>Odzun<\/strong>. Sur cinq personnes, je suis la seule \u00e0 avoir vraiment dormi. Une famille avec de jeunes enfants a pass\u00e9 la nuit \u00e0 courir dans les couloirs jusque tard dans la nuit, et le hall, caisse de r\u00e9sonance parfaite, a amplifi\u00e9 leurs cris jusque dans les chambres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-a6d1l21\">Deux heures de route plus tard, nous atteignons <strong>Haghartsin<\/strong>, nich\u00e9 dans les hauteurs de <strong>Dilijan<\/strong>. Le monast\u00e8re, compos\u00e9 de trois \u00e9glises et d\u2019un r\u00e9fectoire, a \u00e9t\u00e9 b\u00e2ti entre le Xe et le XIIIe si\u00e8cle. Jadis, le lieu brillait par son art de la miniature.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-eyqrr24\">Apr\u00e8s cette visite rapide, nous retrouvons Suren, notre guide local, ancien soldat du <strong>Haut-Karabagh<\/strong> lors d&rsquo;une pr\u00e9c\u00e9dente guerre, reconverti dans la randonn\u00e9e. L\u2019Arm\u00e9nie s\u2019ouvre doucement \u00e0 cette pratique, et nous sommes surpris par les panneaux et les marques rouge et blanc qui jalonnent le sentier. Nous apprendrons un peu plus tard que certains s&rsquo;amusent \u00e0 d\u00e9tourner les panneaux ou indications afin que les touristes perdus appellent \u00e0 l&rsquo;aide\u2026 payante \u00e9videmment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-gyco627\">Il est presque 11 heures. Suren nous propose deux parcours : un court, un long. Sans trop r\u00e9fl\u00e9chir, nous choisissons les 18 km. Mauvais calcul pour moi : d\u00e8s le d\u00e9part je souffre. Cinq mois sans randonner, \u00e7a se paie. Le d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 annonc\u00e9 \u00e0 400 m\u00e8tres fr\u00f4le la supercherie : j\u2019en compte au moins 500, voire 600 raides et surtout tout droit. Pourquoi s&rsquo;encombrer de lacets ? La mont\u00e9e para\u00eet interminable. Notre guide local cavale all\u00e8grement et s&rsquo;arr\u00eate pour cueillir diverses plantes pour des horovats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-40rpu30\">Les paysages pourraient \u00eatre splendides, mais les nuages enveloppent tout. Parfois, une cr\u00eate des montagnes caucasuennes se devine, silhouette fantomatique. Six heures plus tard, nous bouclons enfin le circuit. Nous croisons quelques autres marcheurs : des allemands, des fran\u00e7ais dont deux marseillais et un couple autrichien-breton qui nous conseille de visiter Tbilissi en G\u00e9orgie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-kfmmm33\">En redescendant vers Dilijan, les paysages rappellent \u00e9trangement la Loz\u00e8re. Mais les barri\u00e8res bricol\u00e9es \u00e0 partir de carcasses de voitures d\u00e9soss\u00e9es rappellent brutalement que nous sommes ailleurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-uuufj35\">Garen, notre chauffeur arm\u00e9nien nous attend ainsi qu&rsquo;une famille toutou qui se jette sur nos restes de sandwichs. Globalement chats et chiens ne sont pas gros ici. En tous les cas, les quatre chiens sont beaucoup plus mignons que deux gigantesques patous pr\u00eats \u00e0 nous manger tout cru une demi-heure avant l&rsquo;arriv\u00e9e. Promis, l&rsquo;un des deux feulait. C&rsquo;est l\u00e0 que la compagnie d&rsquo;un ancien soldat rassure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-vj31w37\">En quelques minutes de voiture, sur la route principale, contraste saisissant : un guest house moderne et \u00e9l\u00e9gant nous attend \u00e0 Dilijan, bien diff\u00e9rent de celui d\u2019Odzun.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-u550h43\"><strong>Dilijan<\/strong>, au-del\u00e0 de ses eaux thermales, <strong>abrite l\u2019un des douze lyc\u00e9es les plus prestigieux au monde<\/strong> : 220 \u00e9l\u00e8ves venus des quatre coins du globe, s\u00e9lectionn\u00e9s avec soin avant de rejoindre les meilleures universit\u00e9s. Peut-\u00eatre est-ce pour eux qu\u2019un dignitaire musulman a financ\u00e9 la reconstruction du monast\u00e8re Haghartsin de ce matin ? Un geste fort, r\u00e9jouissant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6exl92791\">Quoiqu&rsquo;il en soit, je retiens la le\u00e7on du jour \u2013 gratuite, celle-l\u00e0 : ne jamais arr\u00eater de marcher.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-4 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8p9rs6-lp6q5c\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3044\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-3-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (1)\" class=\"wp-image-3044\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-3-300x225.jpg 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https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-3-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8p9rv4-y9l1f6\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3040\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_160613-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250908 160613\" class=\"wp-image-3040\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_160613-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250908_160613-225x300.jpg 225w, 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https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_120544-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_120544-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_120544-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8p9s24-ole8yn\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3052\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_163402-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250909 163402\" class=\"wp-image-3052\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_163402-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_163402-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_163402-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_163402-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_163402-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8p9rzb-hj84li\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3049\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_121858-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250909 121858\" class=\"wp-image-3049\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_121858-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_121858-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_121858-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_121858-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_121858-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8p9s00-w6hqw6\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3045\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_144310-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"Paysage sauvage lors de mon voyage en Arm\u00e9nie\" class=\"wp-image-3045\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_144310-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_144310-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_144310-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_144310-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_144310-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8p9s0o-p5gcie\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3051\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_151953-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250909 151953\" class=\"wp-image-3051\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_151953-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_151953-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_151953-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_151953-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250909_151953-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8p9rui-ybwzh8\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3048\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-13-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image\" class=\"wp-image-3048\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-13-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-13-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-13-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-13-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-13-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J5\"><strong>J5 Sevan et SMATABERD, mod\u00e8le rando 2000 m<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-jpdl014\">Oh mon dieu \u2026.par quoi commencer ?<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-rkflz16\">Quelle sublime journ\u00e9e \u00e0 tout point de vue\u2026 et le terme n&rsquo;est pas choisi au hasard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-2pcjd18\">Notre soir\u00e9e \u00e0 Dilijan fut fort sympathique. J&rsquo;\u00e9voque rapidement la soupe choisie au d\u00eener, au yaourt avec des mantis, des raviolis arm\u00e9niens.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ft9ts20\">Et le lendemain, quel petit d\u00e9jeuner de fou ! Tout maison, carrot cake, diff\u00e9rentes sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9s sucr\u00e9es dont je ne retiens pas le nom, confitures d&rsquo;abricots, d&rsquo;orange.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-l36um22\">N&rsquo;oubliez pas, le blog est \u00e9galement consacr\u00e9 aux papilles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-k7jg325\">Bon d\u00e9marrons le r\u00e9cit de cette cinqui\u00e8me journ\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-edtz927\">Au lever, les Vosges d&rsquo;ici sont encore dans les nuages.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-3wvsy29\">Nous reprenons la route et apr\u00e8s une mont\u00e9e, un tunnel et au bout, la lumi\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-p20kr31\">Non, nous ne sommes pas victimes de chauffards. Garen, notre guide-chauffeur ma\u00eetrise. Nous apercevons en effet un tout autre paysage, ensoleill\u00e9. Des steppes. Et apr\u00e8s quelques kilom\u00e8tres le deuxi\u00e8me plus grand lac d&rsquo;altitude au monde, juste apr\u00e8s le Titi Caca\u2026 le lac de Sevan culmine \u00e0 1937 m\u00e8tres et recouvre 6-7% de la superficie d&rsquo;Arm\u00e9nie. Nagu\u00e8re deux autres immenses lacs faisaient partie du territoire d&rsquo; Arm\u00e9nie. Seul le lac de Sevan \u00e9tait d&rsquo;eau douce. Impossible de me rappeler de tout, or pendant la p\u00e9riode sovi\u00e9tique, ce lac a failli en voir des vertes et des pas m\u00fbres\u2026 m\u00eame de disparaitre au profit d&rsquo;un projet de culture de coton en Azerba\u00efdjan. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-p20kr31\">Fort heureusement, les projets \u00e9volu\u00e8rent suite \u00e0 la visite de Kroutchev \u00e0 l&rsquo;usine de brandy de Erevan &#8211; ne jamais dire cognac &#8211; laquelle profita aux Arm\u00e9niens ! Ces derniers lui firent signer tout un tas de documents pour recevoir une belle dotation afin de r\u00e9am\u00e9nager le lac. Perspective peu glamour, il s&rsquo;agissait de construire plusieurs usines. Redevenu lucide, Kroutchev s&rsquo;offusqua du projet \u00abidiot\u00bb mais renon\u00e7a \u00e0 faire marche arri\u00e8re lorsqu&rsquo;il appris le nom du signataire\u2026 Finalement l&rsquo;\u00e8re sovi\u00e9tique se termina et l&rsquo;argent ne coula plus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-pa6pt34\">Outre cet \u00e9pisode sovi\u00e9tique et les p\u00e9rip\u00e9ties de l&rsquo;Histoire, le lac Sevan est un lieu appr\u00e9ci\u00e9 par la population. Plusieurs superbes monast\u00e8res anciens ponctuent ses rives. Nous visitons celui de Sevanavank. La vue sur le lac est sublime ! Un touriste russe nous demande d&rsquo;\u00eatre pris en photo non sans avoir \u00e9voqu\u00e9 Macron et Poutine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-4aymz36\">Nous reprenons la route. Prochaine halte \u00e0 Noratus, un cimeti\u00e8re s\u00e9culaire de 17.000 M2 dont les premi\u00e8res croix tombales, les khatchkars, datent du 9\u00e8me et relatent la vie de certains notables. \u00c0 noter, un khatchkar avec une croix et le Christ avec des traits mongols pour \u00e9viter la destruction par l&rsquo;envahisseur. Il n&rsquo; y en a que 4 croix de la sorte en Arm\u00e9nie. La repr\u00e9sentation du Christ sur la Croix n&rsquo; est pas habituelle dans les \u00e9glises ici. Et lorsque repr\u00e9sentation il y a, le Christ est vivant contrairement \u00e0 ceux dans les \u00e9glises catholiques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-v95o638\">Prochaine halte dans un village Nerkin Getashen. Une table d&rsquo;h\u00f4tes pr\u00e8s d&rsquo;un ancien moulin. Quel r\u00e9gal ! Un horovats, barbecue au poisson du lac, du lavaret. Cette esp\u00e8ce non end\u00e9mique a \u00e9t\u00e9 introduite par les sovi\u00e9tiques. Depuis la premi\u00e8re guerre du Haut Karabagh, la quantit\u00e9 de truites a consid\u00e9rablement baiss\u00e9 et le lavaret prend malheureusement des allures de conqu\u00e9rant. Ah homme, quand tu joues \u00e0 l&rsquo;apprenti sorcier.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-dsxoo40\">Apr\u00e8s le poisson, des baklavas &#8211; ces feuillet\u00e9s aux noix et au miel &#8211; irr\u00e9sistibles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-wq9fa42\">Le caf\u00e9, surj, est puissant. La cuill\u00e8re tient presque debout. Bon d&rsquo;accord j&rsquo;exag\u00e8re un peu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-vwccb44\">Le petit ventre bien tendu, on repart. Heureusement que nous n&rsquo;avons rien d&rsquo;autre \u00e0 faire que d&rsquo;admirer le paysage qui s&rsquo;\u00e9tire. Des steppes, des montagnes pel\u00e9es, une immensit\u00e9 fascinante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-87iol342\">Dans les steppes certains espaces sont incendi\u00e9s pour r\u00e9g\u00e9n\u00e9rer la terre. Rien s&rsquo;affolant mais la fum\u00e9e reste impressionnante. Finalement on atteint le col de S\u00e9lim surplombant le caravans\u00e9rail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-4koas46\">Une auberge du 14\u00e8me si\u00e8cle construite par les arabes pour accueillir les commer\u00e7ants sur la route de la soie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-rbeek48\">Devant le grand b\u00e2timent, une voiture que mon homme reconna\u00eet. Le m\u00eame commer\u00e7ant qu&rsquo;il y a 10 ans. Nous lui prenons une petite bouteille d&rsquo;eau\u2026. de vie d&rsquo;abricots (siran en arm\u00e9nien) \u00c0 peine 60 degr\u00e9s para\u00eet-il.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-gokay51\">Bien \u00e9quip\u00e9s, nous rejoignons notre point de d\u00e9part pour la randonn\u00e9e du jour. Il est 15h, il fait tr\u00e8s beau et chaud ! Malgr\u00e9 tout, nous sommes confiants. Notre nouveau guide de randonn\u00e9e, Norik, est infiniment plus souriant et sympathique que celui de Dilijan. Et surtout patient avec moi. Sans parler du chemin &#8230; plus adapt\u00e9 \u00e0 une activit\u00e9 de randonn\u00e9e. 400 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 en lacets au lieu d&rsquo;une mont\u00e9e raide de 20% au moins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-7krvc53\">Nous atteignons l&rsquo;ancienne forteresse de Smataberd &#8211; un nom qui me rappelle un article d&rsquo;Ikea mais li\u00e9 un ancien roi &#8211; culminant \u00e0 pr\u00e8s de 2000 m\u00e8tres que des arch\u00e9ologues allemands restaurent peu \u00e0 peu. Le panorama est sublime. Je sais, je me r\u00e9p\u00e8te. Le Caucase s&rsquo;offre \u00e0 nous dans toute sa splendeur. Au mois de mai, toutes les montagnes sont verdoyantes et couvertes de fleurs ce qui me tenterait bien pour une prochaine fois.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-g90ou55\">Nous amor\u00e7ons la descente une fois la forteresse examin\u00e9e sous toutes ses coutures. Une heure plus tard, nous arrivons dans un h\u00f4tel superbe au minuscule village d&rsquo;Ehghegis, flambant neuf avec un panorama de r\u00eave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-5fn6u57\">Demain randonn\u00e9e avec Norik toute la journ\u00e9e, je sens que je vais adorer le chemin de cr\u00eate et les 200 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-idjxi59\">Gros coup de c\u0153ur pour cette r\u00e9gion en tous les cas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-5 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\" id=\"J5\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa51a-zcm33q\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3055\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-4-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (1)\" class=\"wp-image-3055\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-4-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-4-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-4-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-4-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-1-4-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa520-iqe1zs\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3056\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-4-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (2)\" class=\"wp-image-3056\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-4-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-4-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-4-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-2-4-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa52q-9ihcvw\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3059\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-3-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (3)\" class=\"wp-image-3059\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-3-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-3-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-3-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-3-3-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa53h-ag03iu\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3061\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-4-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (4)\" class=\"wp-image-3061\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-4-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-4-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-4-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-4-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-4-4-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa545-s4mgje\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3057\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-4-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (5)\" class=\"wp-image-3057\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-4-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-4-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-4-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-4-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-5-4-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa54t-azbs0k\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3058\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (6)\" class=\"wp-image-3058\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa55i-5ug6zf\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3060\" 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src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-3-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (8)\" class=\"wp-image-3067\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-3-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-3-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-3-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-3-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-8-3-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa56z-6v5db1\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3066\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-3-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (9)\" class=\"wp-image-3066\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-9-3-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa57q-pbhxp2\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3085\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-3-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (10)\" class=\"wp-image-3085\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-10-3-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa58n-ukdrkf\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3069\" 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src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-15-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (15)\" class=\"wp-image-3074\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-15-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-15-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-15-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-15-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-15-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5ct-gn6fms\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3084\" 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src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-17-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (17)\" class=\"wp-image-3086\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-17-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-17-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-17-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-17-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-17-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5ej-bua6vh\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3089\" 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src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-20-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (20)\" class=\"wp-image-3091\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-20-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-20-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-20-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-20-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-20-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5hr-4hndpw\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3090\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-21-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (21)\" class=\"wp-image-3090\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-21-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-21-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-21-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-21-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-21-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5ii-sy3pz5\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3088\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-22-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (22)\" class=\"wp-image-3088\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-22-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-22-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-22-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-22-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-22-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5jd-clttx5\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3082\" 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src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-24-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (24)\" class=\"wp-image-3077\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-24-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-24-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-24-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-24-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-24-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5ku-p0frpn\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3080\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-25-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (25)\" class=\"wp-image-3080\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-25-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-25-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-25-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-25-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-25-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5lk-wrj8os\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3079\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-26-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (26)\" class=\"wp-image-3079\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-26-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-26-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-26-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-26-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-26-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5mc-au114k\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3083\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-27-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (27)\" class=\"wp-image-3083\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-27-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-27-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-27-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-27-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-27-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5n4-ebxxrp\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3078\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-16-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image\" class=\"wp-image-3078\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-16-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-16-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-16-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-16-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-16-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5o0-oo63zt\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3072\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_094014-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 094014\" class=\"wp-image-3072\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_094014-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_094014-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_094014-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_094014-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_094014-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5ov-g4wutv\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3071\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_111108-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 111108\" class=\"wp-image-3071\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_111108-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_111108-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_111108-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_111108-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_111108-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5pq-196d6s\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3065\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_133938-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 133938\" class=\"wp-image-3065\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_133938-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_133938-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_133938-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_133938-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_133938-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5qi-lryiad\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3062\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_140311-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 140311\" class=\"wp-image-3062\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_140311-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_140311-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_140311-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_140311-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_140311-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5re-1bd7qa\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3063\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_163908-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 163908\" class=\"wp-image-3063\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_163908-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_163908-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_163908-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_163908-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_163908-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5s8-e16cx7\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3070\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164013-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 164013\" class=\"wp-image-3070\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164013-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164013-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164013-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164013-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164013-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5t2-9yr0f1\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3064\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164651-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 164651\" class=\"wp-image-3064\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164651-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164651-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164651-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164651-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_164651-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5tx-2m062m\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3068\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_165431-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 165431\" class=\"wp-image-3068\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_165431-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_165431-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_165431-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_165431-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_165431-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8qa5vu-fuwuud\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3073\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_180105-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250910 180105\" class=\"wp-image-3073\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_180105-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_180105-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_180105-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_180105-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/IMG_20250910_180105-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J6\"><strong>J6 &#8211; Une histoire de patous arm\u00e9niens<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Je vous \u00e9cris d&rsquo;Yeghegnadzor, avec la fatigue d&rsquo;une journ\u00e9e qui s&rsquo;est r\u00e9v\u00e9l\u00e9e bien plus longue et \u00e9prouvante que pr\u00e9vu. On est loin de l&rsquo;image d&rsquo;\u00c9pinal : en ce mois de septembre, le Sud arm\u00e9nien est une d\u00e9clinaison de jaunes et de bruns. Tout est cuit, d\u00e9s\u00e9ch\u00e9, craquant sous le pied.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">La rando vers <strong>Karmrashen<\/strong> ? Une belle grimpette, monotone par moments, sous un soleil qui ne pardonne pas. On a bien vu le <strong>Vayodsar<\/strong> au loin, ce volcan \u00e9teint qui a le bon go\u00fbt, lui, de rester immobile pendant qu\u2019on transpire. On s&rsquo;est content\u00e9 de le regarder de bas en haut ; l&rsquo;ascension n&rsquo;\u00e9tait clairement pas au programme apr\u00e8s les premiers kilom\u00e8tres de mont\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">L\u2019ambiance locale \u00e9tait, disons, muscl\u00e9e. On a crois\u00e9 une escouade de patous arm\u00e9niens, des monstres de poils qui nous ont hurl\u00e9 dessus avec une agressivit\u00e9 \u00e9pouvantable. Pour la bienvenue chaleureuse, on repassera. C\u2019est l\u00e0 que j\u2019ai baptis\u00e9 mentalement mes trois gaillards, <strong>V\u00e9ri, Suren et Seghouritas<\/strong>, histoire de mettre un nom sur ceux qui nous montraient leurs crocs avec autant d&rsquo;insistance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">C\u00f4t\u00e9 paysage humain, on \u00e9tait en plein n\u00e9or\u00e9alisme. Des bergers, imperturbables sous la chaleur, occup\u00e9s \u00e0 ramasser des bouses de vaches bien s\u00e8ches. C\u2019est le stock de combustible local pour l\u2019hiver, une \u00e9nergie 100 % organique, mais qui ajoute une touche tr\u00e8s particuli\u00e8re \u00e0 ce d\u00e9cor de steppe grill\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Au milieu de nulle part, on tombe sur des contrastes lunaires : la chapelle mill\u00e9naire de <strong>Sainte-Sion<\/strong> qui prend la poussi\u00e8re, et cette ancienne usine de condensateurs a\u00e9ronautiques, relique sovi\u00e9tique fig\u00e9e depuis 1990 qui semble attendre un d\u00e9collage impossible dans un silence de mort. Entre deux gorg\u00e9es d\u2019eau ti\u00e8de, on repense \u00e0 ce tunnel de 48 km qui pompe l&rsquo;eau du lac Sevan pour alimenter le coin, alors que toutes les rivi\u00e8res autour de nous sont d\u00e9sesp\u00e9r\u00e9ment \u00e0 sec.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Bref, une journ\u00e9e interminable, entre steppes et fatigue pesante. On est arriv\u00e9s vann\u00e9s, avec la sensation d&rsquo;avoir m\u00e9rit\u00e9 notre <em>guyni <\/em>(vin en arm\u00e9nien) et surtout, de ne plus vouloir entendre un chien aboyer avant un bon moment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-6 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8s9lur-j4hg2g\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"741\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3104\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-741x1024.png\" alt=\"image\" class=\"wp-image-3104\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-741x1024.png 741w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-217x300.png 217w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-768x1062.png 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image.png 1064w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 741px) 100vw, 741px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta79h-c28y0g\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3105\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_105705-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 105705\" class=\"wp-image-3105\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_105705-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_105705-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_105705-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_105705-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_105705-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7au-yz8pwx\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3110\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image\" class=\"wp-image-3110\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7ca-vkb6bc\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3106\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_092607-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 092607\" class=\"wp-image-3106\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_092607-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_092607-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_092607-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_092607-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_092607-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7ds-2s0m0h\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3107\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083642-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 083642\" class=\"wp-image-3107\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083642-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083642-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083642-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083642-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083642-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7fq-79w47r\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3108\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_140226-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 140226\" class=\"wp-image-3108\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_140226-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_140226-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_140226-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_140226-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_140226-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7hz-r6dq1t\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3109\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_114141-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 114141\" class=\"wp-image-3109\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_114141-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_114141-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_114141-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_114141-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_114141-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7jy-y525o2\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3111\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_080630-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 080630\" class=\"wp-image-3111\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_080630-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_080630-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_080630-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_080630-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_080630-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7ln-tt7s82\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3112\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083834-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 083834\" class=\"wp-image-3112\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083834-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083834-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083834-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083834-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_083834-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7n6-33v5nn\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3116\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_134645-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250911 134645\" class=\"wp-image-3116\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_134645-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_134645-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_134645-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_134645-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250911_134645-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7ol-guv2pm\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"769\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3113\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-769x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (1)\" class=\"wp-image-3113\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-769x1024.jpg 769w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-768x1022.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1154x1536.jpg 1154w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1538x2048.jpg 1538w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-scaled.jpg 1923w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 769px) 100vw, 769px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7q7-v8kjpx\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3114\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (2)\" class=\"wp-image-3114\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7t3-drq0td\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3115\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (3)\" class=\"wp-image-3115\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7xg-3pkj88\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3117\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (5)\" class=\"wp-image-3117\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta7z9-fp6228\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3120\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (6)\" class=\"wp-image-3120\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ta80q-5cgb2r\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3121\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (7)\" class=\"wp-image-3121\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J7\"><strong>J7 &#8211; Des confitures de noix aux menhirs de Carahunge<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-docs-internal-guid-138dd44f-7fff-0f7d-f418-2be31bee27eb\">Nous voil\u00e0 \u00e0 <strong>Goris<\/strong>, la capitale du <strong>Syunik <\/strong>que nous nous appr\u00eatons \u00e0 visiter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-2vbyc38\">Nous \u00e9tions venus il y a dix ans et encore une fois, nous constatons l&rsquo;\u00e9volution. Les fa\u00e7ades, les routes, les h\u00f4tels, m\u00eame les restaurants qui ont vu le jour depuis.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-u7h2440\">L&rsquo;Arm\u00e9nie s&rsquo;ouvre d\u00e9finitivement au tourisme et attire des voyageurs sans racine arm\u00e9nienne. Des Belges, des Australiens mais \u00e9galement des personnes travaillant \u00e0 Duba\u00ef en recherche d&rsquo;une escapade de quelques jours entre deux s\u00e9jours de trois mois.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-tbspz42\">Revenons au r\u00e9cit de ces derni\u00e8res heures.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-gukko44\">Notre soir\u00e9e d&rsquo;hier \u00e0 <strong>Eghegnazor <\/strong>fut plac\u00e9e sous le signe de la pluie. Un gros orage nous cloue dans nos deux tiny house construites sous le noyer vieux de 70 ans. D&rsquo;ailleurs le nom du g\u00eete est <strong>Under the walnut<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-os60r46\">Le temps change, l&rsquo;automne se d\u00e9ploie\u2026 et m\u00eame l&rsquo;hiver comme nous le constaterons un peu plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-d2ltj48\">Nous d\u00eenons de sp\u00e9cialit\u00e9s plus ou moins locales sous la pergola qui tient le choc des trombes d&rsquo;eau s&rsquo;abattant. Le dessert est l&rsquo;apoth\u00e9ose notamment la meilleure <strong>confiture de noix<\/strong> jamais go\u00fbt\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-2fcaz50\">Cette douceur est pr\u00e9par\u00e9e avec de jeunes noix vertes cueillies en juin (hunis en arm\u00e9nien). Celles-ci sont divinement al dente. \u00c9videmment, nous craquons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-dkfht52\">Le lendemain nous achetons deux pots ainsi que de l&rsquo;alcool de coings distill\u00e9s par l&rsquo;homme de la maison.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-mintb54\">Son antre de bouilleur de cru est un paradis. Les Arm\u00e9niens ont vraiment du savoir-faire en la mati\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-7germ56\">Fort heureusement, nous sommes pr\u00e9voyants. Nous voyageons avec une \u00e9norme valise que nous avions laiss\u00e9e \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 vide afin de pouvoir tout ramener en soute.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-rkpuk58\">Apr\u00e8s la nouvelle extase gourmande de la journ\u00e9e, nous prenons la route.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6vavz60\">Direction la r\u00e9gion de Syunik, adieu le <strong>Vayots Dzor<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ss0b662\">Des steppes, des montagnes plus basaltiques encore qu&rsquo;au Vayots Dzor. Des pierres noires certainement secou\u00e9es par des tremblements de terre successifs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-w2dgz64\">Au d\u00e9tour d&rsquo;un virage nous nous arr\u00eatons pour une pause photo avec vue sur un lac. Nous croisons un couple l&rsquo;octog\u00e9naires wallons tomb\u00e9s sous le charme des pays de l&rsquo;Est : l&rsquo;Ouzb\u00e9kistan, le Turkm\u00e9nistan, la G\u00e9orgie. Leur guide Abel nous salue et explique \u00eatre originaire d&rsquo;un village de Sevan o\u00f9 tous les Arm\u00e9niens ont les yeux bleus. Une surprise pour moi.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-3qum366\">Sur la route de nombreux v\u00e9hicules militaires viennent \u00e0 notre rencontre. La fronti\u00e8re avec l&rsquo;Azerba\u00efdjan n&rsquo; est pas loin, surtout depuis l&rsquo;annexion du Haut Karabagh.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-bavci68\">Au fur et \u00e0 mesure de nos discussions, les langues se d\u00e9lient. La derni\u00e8re guerre semble avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 mal pr\u00e9par\u00e9e \u2026 mais sciemment. Un corps militaire compos\u00e9 de mauvais strat\u00e8ges, des sommes colossales qui auraient circul\u00e9es entre l&rsquo;Azerba\u00efdjan et l&rsquo;Arm\u00e9nie, des projets de d\u00e9placement de 6000 az\u00e9ris afin de \u00abcoloniser\u00bb peu \u00e0 peu le pays non encore annex\u00e9, des changements de constitution incluant une renonciation \u00e0 prot\u00e9ger le Haut Karabagh. Quelle est la part de v\u00e9rit\u00e9 dans ces rumeurs ? On ne peut que secouer la t\u00eate ou plut\u00f4t la courber en passant devant les cimeti\u00e8res o\u00f9 fleurissent les drapeaux arm\u00e9niens sur les tombes de tout jeunes soldats.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6ddrt71\">Notre prochaine halte est \u00e0 <strong>Zorats Karer <\/strong>ou <strong>Carahunge<\/strong>, un lieu spectaculaire et myst\u00e9rieux. 157 m\u00e8tres sur 137 m\u00e8tres d&rsquo;alignement de pierres, Karer, de Menhirs en quelque sorte, certains perc\u00e9s de mani\u00e8re \u00e0 pouvoir contempler la lune, le soleil ou diff\u00e9rents astres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-rufli73\">Un lieu vibrant qui interpelle, de plus de 6500 ans avant JC. Plus de 60 tombes ensevelies, peu \u00e0 peu d\u00e9couvertes par des arch\u00e9ologues. Une cercle de pierres o\u00f9 ont \u00e9t\u00e9 trouv\u00e9es des squelettes de vierges.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-45zpx75\">Quoiqu&rsquo;il en soit, l&rsquo;alignement avec Stonehenge et les Pyramides formerait une triangle \u00e9quilat\u00e9ral.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-gohwu77\">Je fais partie de ceux qui ne croient pas au hasard. Il semblerait que le \u00abhenge\u00bb dans Stonehenge ne soit pas une particule \u00e9tymologiquement habituelle pour cette r\u00e9gion britannique et que des anc\u00eatres arm\u00e9niens du moins originaires de ce coin d&rsquo; Arm\u00e9nie aient migr\u00e9s jusque l\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-mkzxv79\">Pourvu que les p\u00e9rip\u00e9ties g\u00e9opolitiques pr\u00e9servent ce lieu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-yt9i081\">Dans le Haut Karabagh la majorit\u00e9 des sites cultuels ont \u00e9t\u00e9 ras\u00e9s sans parler des villages et des populations d\u00e9cim\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ec4zg83\">Non loin, dans les montagnes proches d\u00e9j\u00e0 poudr\u00e9es de neige, le site de p\u00e9troglyphes Ughtassar. Que nous ne visiterons pas en raison de sa situation critique sur la fronti\u00e8re. Certains p\u00e9troglyphes \u00e9voquent un globe terrestre divis\u00e9 en 4 ainsi que la repr\u00e9sentation biblique d&rsquo;Adam et Eve au paradis pommier et serpent inclus ! Le tout, il y a plus de 6500 ans. Un autre p\u00e9troglyphe, un bouc, me rappelle son homologue inscrit sur une paroi de la Grotte Cosquer dans les calanques marseillaises. \u00c0 ceci pr\u00e8s que je n&rsquo; ai aper\u00e7u que son artefact au pied du Mucem. Loin de moi l&rsquo;id\u00e9e de faire de la plong\u00e9e mais ceci est une autre histoire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6lgnl86\">La journ\u00e9e se poursuit, halte aux cascades de Shaki, li\u00e9es \u00e0 la rivi\u00e8re Vortovan coulant du lac aper\u00e7u un peu plus t\u00f4t.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-7hotm88\">Pas moins de trois \u00e9tals dont un de fruits secs \u00e9poustouflants.. Nous nous chargeons d&rsquo;abricots et de figues s\u00e9ch\u00e9es ainsi que de plusieurs saucissons de noix. Rien \u00e0 voir avec un saucisson de viande. Ce sont des noix enfil\u00e9es sur un fil lesquelles sont tremp\u00e9es jour apr\u00e8s jour dans un sirop de jus de raisin jusqu&rsquo;\u00e0 former un saucisson. Tout \u00e0 l&rsquo;image de la cuisine arm\u00e9nienne, simple en th\u00e9orie mais pas pour gens press\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-3o2uh90\">Et puisqu&rsquo;on parle de cuisine, halte d\u00e9jeuner chez un c\u00e9ramiste \u00e0 Sissian qui nous d\u00e9taille avec emphase son logo et sa symbolique ainsi que celle des sali\u00e8res enceintes sp\u00e9cifiques \u00e0 l&rsquo;Arm\u00e9nie qu&rsquo;il a cr\u00e9\u00e9es. Que j&rsquo;ai h\u00e9las compl\u00e8tement oubli\u00e9 de photographier et que seules les femmes mari\u00e9es sont en droit de poss\u00e9der.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-m5ysn92\">Apr\u00e8s le d\u00e9jeuner sur place compos\u00e9 de salades et <strong>dolmas<\/strong>, je craque pour deux tasses orn\u00e9es d&rsquo;une anse en grenade et en forme de mini <strong>djezv\u00e9<\/strong>, cette cafeti\u00e8re sp\u00e9cifique au pays. Devinez quoi, l&rsquo;une d&rsquo;elle est rose ! On ne se refait pas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6uc7895\">Et tandis que la journ\u00e9e s\u2019ach\u00e8ve, je dois recoudre \u00e0 Goris le bouton de mon pantalon, vaincu par tant de festins. Ce soir, d\u00eener dans un restaurant tenu par deux Arm\u00e9niennes venues de France.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-599jy98\">Je songe \u00e0 mon rendez-vous chez la nutritionniste fin septembre, que je serais tent\u00e9e de repousser\u2026 Mais demain nous attend une randonn\u00e9e de 9,5 km avec 800 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 positif. Envoyez-moi vos bonnes ondes !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1hcr-n4dcjh\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (7)\" class=\"wp-image-3135\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-7 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1gzj-jqcgzz\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3129\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (1)\" class=\"wp-image-3129\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1haw-9doxqx\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3134\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (6)\" class=\"wp-image-3134\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1gsh-sztcrk\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"473\" data-id=\"3123\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1024x473.jpg\" alt=\"image\" class=\"wp-image-3123\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1024x473.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-300x139.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-768x355.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1536x709.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9.jpg 1992w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1gxx-jq690w\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3126\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_105416-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250912 105416\" class=\"wp-image-3126\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_105416-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_105416-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_105416-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_105416-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_105416-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1gtx-g7qsgx\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3124\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112303-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250912 112303\" class=\"wp-image-3124\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112303-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112303-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112303-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112303-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112303-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1gva-6oq3l2\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3125\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112534-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250912 112534\" class=\"wp-image-3125\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112534-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112534-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112534-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112534-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112534-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1gwl-rlpdcf\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3127\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112524-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250912 112524\" class=\"wp-image-3127\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112524-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112524-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112524-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112524-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_112524-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1h0y-s1atsj\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3128\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (2)\" class=\"wp-image-3128\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-1-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1h2s-plvh19\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3130\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (3)\" class=\"wp-image-3130\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-1-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1h6z-2jbiyx\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3132\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_122946-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250912 122946\" class=\"wp-image-3132\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_122946-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_122946-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_122946-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_122946-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250912_122946-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1h8z-x0abo9\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"769\" data-id=\"3133\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1-1024x769.jpg\" alt=\"image (5)\" class=\"wp-image-3133\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1-1024x769.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1-768x577.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1-1536x1154.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-5-1-2048x1538.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1her-605bqs\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3137\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-8-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (8)\" class=\"wp-image-3137\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-8-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-8-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-8-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-8-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-8-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8u1hgg-2w0trj\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3136\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (9)\" class=\"wp-image-3136\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-1-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J8\"><strong>J8 Dans les gorges profondes&#8230; entre Goris et Tatev<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6jzs6287\">Apr\u00e8s une tr\u00e8s belle \u00e9tape \u00e0 Goris \u2014 ville o\u00f9 ont \u00e9merg\u00e9 une centaine d\u2019h\u00f4tels et une cinquantaine de boulangeries ces derni\u00e8res ann\u00e9es, avant la perte du Haut Karabagh qui marque un vrai frein \u00e9conomique \u2014 nous quittons les lieux pour un pont suspendu : vieille pomme ou gorge profonde, au choix. Khnedzoresk, ou quelque chose d\u2019approchant. Khnzdor signifie pomme.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-sx5yp289\">415 marches pour l\u2019atteindre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6hs9d292\">La cousine et moi accompagnons nos hommes sur les premi\u00e8res lattes du pont, puis faisons demi-tour. De l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9, le village troglodyte abritait jadis 5 000 habitants et de nombreux commerces. Le dernier a quitt\u00e9 les lieux en 1953. Depuis, silence et pierres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-80qnf294\">Sur le chemin du retour, nous croisons un groupe d&rsquo;hispanophones que nous reverrons \u00e0 plusieurs reprises. Puis la remont\u00e9e des 415 marches s\u2019amorce \u2014 presque facile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ur1ue296\">En haut, trois motards moscovites sur des BMW GS, les m\u00eames que mon homme enfourchait en Argentine il y a six ans. Petite parenth\u00e8se : d\u2019apr\u00e8s notre guide, les Moscovites \u00e9chappent \u00e0 l\u2019enr\u00f4lement, seuls les habitants des r\u00e9gions rurales sont envoy\u00e9s \u00e0 la guerre en Ukraine. Politique \u00e9trange et triste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-1eqga299\">Quelques kilom\u00e8tres plus loin, nous attendons notre guide de randonn\u00e9e. Never finit par arriver : un grand \u00e9chalas en tenue militaire\u2026 sans sac, sans b\u00e2tons, un vieux portable en poche et surtout des chaussures de ville us\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-n3t52301\">Pass\u00e9e la surprise, nous amor\u00e7ons la descente. Les estimations divergent : 500 m\u00e8tres de d\u00e9nivel\u00e9 selon moi, 250 selon le mari de la cousine. Quoi qu\u2019il en soit, une heure de descente avant d\u2019atteindre la rivi\u00e8re, au c\u0153ur de la \u00ab gorge du paradis des fruits \u00bb. Figuiers, noyers \u00e0 profusion, vignes de muscat en lianes, cerisiers amers : \u00e7a pousse partout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ymact304\">Never raconte en chemin. Militaire charg\u00e9 de veiller sur ce coin, il a aussi fait la guerre \u2014 des guerre de drones, mais pas seulement. Dans son village, beaucoup d\u2019hommes enr\u00f4l\u00e9s ne sont jamais revenus. Pourtant il garde le sourire. Ici, la nature recharge ses forces.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-fpq5b306\">Un panneau montre la faune locale : ours, lynx\u2026 qu\u2019il a d\u00e9j\u00e0 crois\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-n5box309\">Apr\u00e8s quelques heures, nous atteignons l\u2019hermitage de Tatev, nagu\u00e8re refuge en cas d\u2019invasion. Jadis, il aurait \u00e9t\u00e9 reli\u00e9 au monast\u00e8re principal par un passage secret. Tatev domine la falaise, \u00e0 plusieurs centaines de m\u00e8tres au-dessus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-j0ptg311\">Nous recroisons les femmes hispanophones : l\u2019une d\u2019elles, venue d\u2019Argentine, conna\u00eet une amie de la cousine. Le monde est d\u00e9cid\u00e9ment minuscule.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-qdb7g314\">Au pont du diable, apr\u00e8s 17 kilom\u00e8tres \u00e0 pied, nous renon\u00e7ons \u00e0 descendre en rappel pour plonger dans les sources chaudes. Mais une s\u00e9ance dans ce doux enfer naturel m&rsquo;aurait bien tent\u00e9e !&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-hrpr0316\">Notre chauffeur nous d\u00e9pose ensuite \u00e0 Tatev o\u00f9 ma veste en m\u00e9rinos fait sens. Il doit faire 13 degr\u00e9s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-10ror318\">Ce complexe monastique et universitaire, dont les premi\u00e8res traces remontent au IVe si\u00e8cle, accueillit \u00e0 une \u00e9poque plus de mille \u00e9tudiants. L\u2019universit\u00e9 rivalisait presque avec Etchmiadzine, le Vatican arm\u00e9nien. Aujourd\u2019hui, quelques moines vivent encore sur place. L\u2019\u00e9glise principale, d\u00e9di\u00e9e \u00e0 saint Pierre et saint Paul, impressionne par sa beaut\u00e9 simple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-6fj18321\">Le soir, nous dormons \u00e0 Tatev, dans un hameau tr\u00e8s pauvre, chez l\u2019une des six s\u0153urs de Never avec table d&rsquo;h\u00f4tes incluse. Sur le chemin, des enfants transportent des bonbonnes d\u2019eau : signe que l\u2019eau courante n\u2019arrive pas partout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-itnoa323\">Demain matin, retour \u00e0 Erevan, vers des temp\u00e9ratures plus estivales.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-s1yxv1395\">Dans notre chambre, les deux couvertures ne sont pas de trop et je ne l\u00e2che pas ma veste en m\u00e9rinos ni mes chaussettes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-default is-cropped wp-block-gallery-8 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ugs8b-rbyte7\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3139\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-10-768x1024.jpg\" 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https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-2-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-2-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-2-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-2-2-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ugseg-wgqa8l\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3142\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (3)\" class=\"wp-image-3142\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-2-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-2-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-2-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-3-2-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ugsgk-ctgcpc\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3143\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-4-2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (4)\" class=\"wp-image-3143\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-4-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-4-2-225x300.jpg 225w, 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https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-2-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-2-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-6-2-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ugsm9-ibna66\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3146\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (7)\" class=\"wp-image-3146\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-7-2-225x300.jpg 225w, 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1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-12-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-12-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ugsxm-ea6qyd\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3153\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-13-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (13)\" class=\"wp-image-3153\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-13-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-13-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-13-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-13-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-13-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8ugszi-k01p19\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3152\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-14-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (14)\" class=\"wp-image-3152\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-14-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-14-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-14-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-14-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-14-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uibk1-1x0im9\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3154\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-15-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (15)\" class=\"wp-image-3154\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-15-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-15-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-15-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-15-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-15-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uibmd-ckbpjl\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3155\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-16-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (16)\" class=\"wp-image-3155\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-16-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-16-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-16-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-16-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-16-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uibp2-fea61b\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3156\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-17-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (17)\" class=\"wp-image-3156\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-17-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-17-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-17-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-17-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-17-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uibrf-2hm2dy\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3157\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-18-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (18)\" class=\"wp-image-3157\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-18-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-18-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-18-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-18-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-18-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uibtw-pyaba6\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3158\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-19-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"image (19)\" class=\"wp-image-3158\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-19-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-19-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-19-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-19-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-19-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uibwf-mqtlhj\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3159\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-20-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (20)\" class=\"wp-image-3159\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-20-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-20-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-20-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-20-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-20-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J9\"><strong>J9 &#8211; Sous le regard de l&rsquo;Ararat<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-kvccw19\">Nous voil\u00e0 de retour \u00e0 Erevan au m\u00eame h\u00f4tel que les premiers jours. En une journ\u00e9e, nous sommes repass\u00e9s d&rsquo;un temps automnal \u00e0 l&rsquo;\u00e9t\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-doypr21\">Hue cheval, pas trop vite. Je m&rsquo;en vais vous conter le r\u00e9cit de la journ\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-magvu24\">Apr\u00e8s une nuit chez des agriculteurs \u00e0 Tatev dans des chambres disparates, non chauff\u00e9es et avec une douche oscillant entre glacial et br\u00fblant, petit d\u00e9jeuner enti\u00e8rement maison : pain ti\u00e8de, beurre doux, f\u00e9ta, yaourt p\u00e9tillant comme du k\u00e9fir \u2014 tout sauf le caf\u00e9. De quoi nous remettre de bonne humeur. Puis direction le t\u00e9l\u00e9ph\u00e9rique de Tatev, \u00ab Wings of Tatev \u00bb, 5,7 kilom\u00e8tres suspendus au-dessus du vide. Le plus long t\u00e9l\u00e9ph\u00e9rique au monde.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-bvrh726\">Les b\u00e9n\u00e9fices du trajet vont au monast\u00e8re, para\u00eet-il. Dommage que le hameau de Tatev ne semble pas b\u00e9n\u00e9ficier des retomb\u00e9es tellement les habitations et les rues nous ont paru pauvres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-byh6x28\">Le tramway des airs arrive. Nuages bas, vue absente, juste un aper\u00e7u des gorges d\u2019hier. Il para\u00eet que cette m\u00e9t\u00e9o est rare. Nous n&rsquo;avons pas de chance sur ce coup l\u00e0. Tant pis, il faudra revenir une autre fois lors d&rsquo;un prochain voyage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-sgnn830\">De l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9, notre guide nous attend, repos\u00e9 dans un confort plus classique \u00e0 Goris que notre halte chez l\u2019habitant. C&rsquo;est nous qui avions insist\u00e9, et je pense que nous avons bien fait de d\u00e9couvrir l&rsquo;envers du d\u00e9cor pour mieux appr\u00e9cier les autres h\u00e9bergements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-19ugs32\">On reprend la route et on quitte le Syunik et le crachin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ygjyj35\">Noravank. Canyon flamboyant, falaises rouges. Nous ne nous arr\u00eatons pas aux grottes d\u2019Areni : d\u00e9j\u00e0 visit\u00e9es il y a dix ans, bien avant l\u2019ouverture au public, quand un guide astucieux nous y avait men\u00e9s. Ici, sur la fa\u00e7ade du monast\u00e8re ferm\u00e9 pour travaux, deux caract\u00e8res arm\u00e9niens entrem\u00ealent plusieurs lettres en une seule : \u00e0 la fois initiales de saints, du Christ et de je ne sais plus qui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-z1lsc37\">De quoi me donner envie d&rsquo;am\u00e9liorer la lecture de l&rsquo;arm\u00e9nien. Bien que celui inscrit ici soit ancien. N\u00e9anmoins en quelques jours, je d\u00e9crypte de plus en plus les 36 caract\u00e8res, j&rsquo;identifie des mots, je saisis des bribes de conversation et j&rsquo;adore \u00e7a.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ck8z039\">Pause d\u00e9jeuner. Puis, travers\u00e9e d\u2019un village priv\u00e9 d\u2019eau courante, d\u00e9pendant d\u2019une source \u00e0 vingt-sept kilom\u00e8tres. Les routes se ferment, les fronti\u00e8res p\u00e8sent. Les exclaves autrefois franchissables sont d\u00e9sormais probl\u00e9matiques.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ckges42\">Face au mont Ararat qu\u2019on devine dans les nuages, symbole plus fort encore pour l&rsquo;Arm\u00e9nie qu\u2019il ne lui appartient plus, Khor Virap enfin. \u00ab Puits profond \u00bb. Treize ans d\u2019emprisonnement pour Gr\u00e9goire l\u2019Illuminateur avant de convertir un roi et un peuple. L\u2019Arm\u00e9nie fut la premi\u00e8re nation \u00e0 adopter la religion chr\u00e9tienne de mani\u00e8re officielle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ac1g480\">\u00c0 mon sens, et je m&rsquo;arr\u00eaterai l\u00e0 dans le d\u00e9veloppement de mon opinion personnelle une des branches chr\u00e9tiennes la plus authentique et qui donne la place \u00e0 une vie de famille normale \u00e0 de nombreux dignitaires, sauf les moines ou ceux en haut de la hi\u00e9rarchie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-5vb6c44\">Retour \u00e0 Erevan. L\u2019air charg\u00e9, brutal apr\u00e8s la paix des pierres, des steppes et des montagnes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-ux75o46\">Derniers instants avec Garen, notre formidable guide chauffeur qui repart d\u00e8s demain vers d\u2019autres voyageurs. Quelle vie !<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-meiwc49\">Nos prochains jours seront libres. On ira se perdre dans les rues, explorer le quartier d\u2019enfance de mon homme et de sa cousine. Et repartir, oui vers nos foyers confortables. Mais ce qu\u2019on aura senti, touch\u00e9, retenu, restera suspendu quelque part entre deux mots : retour et souvenir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:50px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-9 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uveek-01bmsv\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3171\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_100629-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250914 100629\" class=\"wp-image-3171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_100629-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_100629-225x300.jpg 225w, 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https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-3-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-9-3-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uveas-un1age\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3172\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-10-2-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"image (10)\" class=\"wp-image-3172\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-10-2-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-10-2-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-10-2-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-10-2-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-10-2-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uvep5-fdy7jc\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"768\" height=\"1024\" data-id=\"3177\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_152818-768x1024.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250914 152818\" class=\"wp-image-3177\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_152818-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_152818-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_152818-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_152818-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_152818-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 768px) 100vw, 768px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8uvevt-wn95v0\" class=\"wp-block-image size-large\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1024\" height=\"768\" data-id=\"3180\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_180940-1024x768.jpg\" alt=\"img 20250914 180940\" class=\"wp-image-3180\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_180940-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_180940-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_180940-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_180940-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_20250914_180940-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\" id=\"J10\"><strong>J10 &#8211; Le d\u00e9part<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-docs-internal-guid-9b617e33-7fff-bc05-cfa6-9adc5a224c7e\">Il \u00e9tait une fois. <strong>1947<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-scgjy17\">Sarkis a 22 ans. Joueur de foot reconnu au LOU, le club de foot Lyon Olympique Universit\u00e9, n\u00e9 pourtant dans le Var \u00e0 la Seyne sur mer. L\u2019a\u00een\u00e9 d\u2019une fratrie de quatre.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-jio6g20\">Leurs parents ont fui le <strong>g\u00e9nocide de 1915<\/strong>. Cette nuit du 24 avril o\u00f9 les notables furent arr\u00eat\u00e9s, ex\u00e9cut\u00e9s. Puis l\u2019exode, les marches forc\u00e9es, les d\u00e9portations. Hommes, femmes, enfants, b\u00e9b\u00e9s. Deux tiers d\u2019un peuple an\u00e9antis. Une nation bris\u00e9e, \u00e0 peine debout.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-j5ahg23\">Trente ans plus tard, Staline promet aux Arm\u00e9niens de la diaspora un retour au pays, des terres, du travail, l\u2019illusion d\u2019une vie meilleure. Deux paquebots partent de Marseille, emportant 5000 \u00e2mes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-jrxfi26\">La famille de Sarkis se pr\u00e9sente au d\u00e9part. Quatre enfants n\u00e9s en France. Les douaniers refusent. \u00ab Pas question que des petits Fran\u00e7ais partent pour l\u2019Arm\u00e9nie sovi\u00e9tique. \u00bb Mais le p\u00e8re ne renonce pas. Le soir venu, il cache ses enfants parmi la foule. Pendant qu\u2019on d\u00e9tourne l\u2019attention des gardes, Sarkis, Rose, Madeleine et Rupen montent en secret sur le paquebot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-pzd6h29\">Le patriarche revient avec son \u00e9pouse. Les passeports ne collent pas : quatre noms d\u2019enfants inscrits, mais pas d\u2019enfants \u00e0 leurs c\u00f4t\u00e9s. Les douaniers flairent le pi\u00e8ge. \u00ab Les Arm\u00e9niens ne laissent jamais leurs enfants \u00bb, disent-ils. Refus. Le navire appareille.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-g78wj32\">Et voil\u00e0 : quatre enfants seuls, arrach\u00e9s \u00e0 leurs parents, embarqu\u00e9s vers l\u2019inconnu. Sarkis, le p\u00e8re de mon homme, 22 ans, propuls\u00e9 chef de famille. Rose, 18 ans, encore une adolescente. Madeleine, 13 ans. Rupen, le p\u00e8re de la cousine, 11 ans \u00e0 peine. Une petite tribu livr\u00e9e \u00e0 elle-m\u00eame, qui traverse la M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e et des centaines de kilom\u00e8tres de rails jusqu\u2019\u00e0 Erevan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-pqil735\">L\u00e0-bas, pas de paradis. Juste la faim, le froid, la mis\u00e8re. Mais aussi une fraternit\u00e9 indestructible. Sept ann\u00e9es \u00e0 survivre sans leurs parents, \u00e0 s\u2019accrocher les uns aux autres, jusqu\u2019au jour o\u00f9 enfin, les retrouvailles furent possibles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-zq4kj37\">Survivant \u00e0 la peur, aux brimades encore et encore. \u00c0 la politique de d\u00e9nonciation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-w28aq39\">Et pourtant\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-26e7r41\">La fratrie s\u2019unit et r\u00e9siste. Sarkis \u00e9pouse Tamara, Rupen \u00e9pouse Anahit. Une nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration na\u00eet. 20 ans pour revenir. 20 ans \u00e0 entendre le mot \u00abrefus\u00e9\u00bb pour \u00e9voquer les vaines tentatives de retrouver la France. Avant que l&rsquo;ing\u00e9niosit\u00e9 familiale permette d&rsquo;obtenir le s\u00e9same vers la libert\u00e9. Encore une fois, il fallu reconstruire une vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-1cif444\">Et aujourd\u2019hui, les cousins reviennent sur les lieux de l\u2019enfance, dans ce quartier de Chaoumian, propret, malgr\u00e9 la pauvret\u00e9 de certaines habitations. Une voisine reconna\u00eet \u00ab le petit gar\u00e7on d\u00e9sob\u00e9issant , mon homme, et appelle son fr\u00e8re presque nonag\u00e9naire comme elle. Elle offre caf\u00e9, g\u00e2teau, p\u00eaches, brandy. Plus loin, une veuve ouvre sa maison, l&rsquo;ancienne maison de mon homme. Comme les autres, cette dame g\u00e9n\u00e9reuse avec rien. La cousine retrouve son ancienne habitation et celle juste \u00e0 c\u00f4t\u00e9, celle d&rsquo;une autre cousine o\u00f9 ses nouveaux occupants offrent caf\u00e9 et raisin du jardin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-dsz3n47\">L\u2019\u00e9motion culmine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\" id=\"viewer-vbf9f64\">La boucle se referme. Quand un descendant retrouve ses racines et la terre qui l\u2019a nourri, il sait dans quelle direction d\u00e9plier ses feuilles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:40px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-gallery has-nested-images columns-1 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-10 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\">\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8vggv9-gm6p6h\" class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"685\" data-id=\"3184\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Famille-Aprahamian.jpg\" alt=\"famille aprahamian\" class=\"wp-image-3184\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Famille-Aprahamian.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Famille-Aprahamian-300x206.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Famille-Aprahamian-768x526.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure data-spectra-id=\"spectra-mo8vggx3-z0ycw5\" class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1920\" height=\"2560\" data-id=\"3185\" src=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-4-scaled.jpg\" alt=\"image (1)\" class=\"wp-image-3185\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-4-scaled.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-4-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-4-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-4-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/image-1-4-1536x2048.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" \/><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\"\/>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Si vous aimez les paysages de montagne, d\u00e9couvrez aussi mon r\u00e9cit sur la <strong><a href=\"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/rando-dans-la-vallee-de-la-roya\/\">Vall\u00e9e de la Roya<\/a><\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>J0 : Direction Erevan En septembre 2025, nous nous sommes envol\u00e9s pour l\u2019Arm\u00e9nie, la terre d\u2019enfance de mon homme. Ce r\u00e9cit retrace notre p\u00e9riple entre gastronomie, retrouvailles et randonn\u00e9es \u00e0 travers des paysages aussi bruts que magnifiques. \u2708\ufe0f C\u00f4t\u00e9 Pratique Pour ceux qui envisageraient l\u2019aventure, le voyage est plus simple qu&rsquo;il n&rsquo;y para\u00eet : Un [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3058,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_uag_custom_page_level_css":"","site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"set","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[18,16,17],"class_list":["post-2993","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-rando","tag-18","tag-armenie","tag-erevan"],"uagb_featured_image_src":{"full":["https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-scaled.jpg",2560,1920,false],"thumbnail":["https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-150x150.jpg",150,150,true],"medium":["https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-300x225.jpg",300,225,true],"medium_large":["https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-768x576.jpg",768,576,true],"large":["https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-1024x768.jpg",1024,768,true],"1536x1536":["https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-1536x1152.jpg",1536,1152,true],"2048x2048":["https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/04\/image-6-3-2048x1536.jpg",2048,1536,true]},"uagb_author_info":{"display_name":"Maya","author_link":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/author\/maya\/"},"uagb_comment_info":0,"uagb_excerpt":"J0 : Direction Erevan En septembre 2025, nous nous sommes envol\u00e9s pour l\u2019Arm\u00e9nie, la terre d\u2019enfance de mon homme. Ce r\u00e9cit retrace notre p\u00e9riple entre gastronomie, retrouvailles et randonn\u00e9es \u00e0 travers des paysages aussi bruts que magnifiques. \u2708\ufe0f C\u00f4t\u00e9 Pratique Pour ceux qui envisageraient l\u2019aventure, le voyage est plus simple qu&rsquo;il n&rsquo;y para\u00eet : Un\u2026","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2993","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2993"}],"version-history":[{"count":19,"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2993\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4238,"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2993\/revisions\/4238"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/3058"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2993"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2993"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.kilometres-et-papilles.fr\/fr\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2993"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}